Baby T-Rex

baby.dinosaur

This baby T-Rex (Mama T-Rex pattern coming later!) is really fun to make. I love his big head and round little belly! It's cute and petit, standing about four inches tall, and measuring about six inches from nose to tail. The head and body are made in one piece, so you only need to sew the arms and legs.  

My little guys loves his dinosaurs. It's really rewarding to see how often they get played with. I appreciate that he can explore rough roaring carnivore play without smashing his and his friends fingers. If you've ever played plastic dinosaurs with a little kid, you'll know what I'm talking about! They're sturdy enough for play, but also cute and snuggly enough to make an excellent nap time partner. I hope you enjoy making your own Baby T-Rex! 

For those of you who love dinosaurs but can't crochet, I also sell them in our etsy shop! Click here to check it out!

xo, Laura

Baby T-Rex Pattern


Notes:

-I start out this pattern with rows, but it quickly starts being measured by a stitch marker. *Always place the stitch marker in the first stitch of that row.*

- The rows of "place stitch marker" are numbered for reference. I use one stitch marker and move it every time. I reference the "rows" in the picture tutorials as "#PSM." 

-Each row (unless the instruction is “turn,” or in one special case “remove stitch marker”) should end in the last stitch before the stitch marker.  

Supplies:
Size 3.0 hook
Medium Level 4 Yarn

Abbreviations:
SC = single crochet
2 SC = two single crochets into same stitch
SC DEC = single crochet decrease

Pattern:

Chain 4.

Row 1: SC into second stitch from hook, SC to end (3 stitches)

Row 2: Chain 1, turn, SC to end (3 stitches)

Row 3: Chain 1, turn, SC into first 2 stitches, 3 SC into last to round the corner. 

Row 4: SC into next stitch, 3 SC into corner stitch, SC into next stitch, 3 SC into corner, SC into next stitch

1 Place Stitch Marker: *Remember from now on to insert the stitch marker into the FIRST stitch of that row* 3 SC into first stitch (corner), SC each stitch around (16 stitches)

2 Place Stitch Marker: SC into the  into each stitch around (16 stitches) Invert so the good side is facing out.  

3 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next six stitches. 
Chain 1, turn, SC into next four stitches.
Chain 1, turn, SC into next four stitches.

4 Place Stitch Marker: Now to SC around, SC into each of the sides of the two horizontal rows of SC’s, SC next 14 stitches as usual, SC into the side of each of the two horizontal rows, SC the four stitches across the top (22 stitches) 

You can click on the images below to enlarge the pictures if you want some help.

5 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next 18 stitches, SC DEC, SC DEC (20 stitches)

6 Place Stitch Marker: SC in each stitch around (20 stitches) x2

7 Place Stitch Marker: SC around (20 SC’s), remove stitch marker and SC in next five stitches.

Turn. Starting in second stitch from hook, do four SC DEC. {Place safety eyes}

8 Place Stitch Marker: SC in each stitch around (16 stitches) 


9 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next four stitches, 2 SC into the next four stitches, SC into next four stitches, SC DEC, SC DEC (18 stitches)

Stuff the head with some stuffing

10 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next 16 stitches, SC DEC (17 stitches)

11 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next seven stitches, 2 SC, 2 SC, SC into next seven stitches, remove stitch marker and SC DEC, (18 stitches)

12 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next eight stitches, 2 SC, 2 SC, SC into following eight stitches (20 stitches) 

13 Place Stitch Marker:  SC into each stitch around (20 stitches)

14 Place Stitch Marker:  SC into next eight stitches, 2 SC, SC into next two stitches, 2 SC, SC into next eight stitches (22 stitches)

15 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next 18 stitches, turn, (do not skip a stitch) SC DEC, SC next eight stitches, SC DEC. Turn, (do not skip a stitch) SC DEC, SC next six stitches, SC DEC. Turn.

16 Place Stitch Marker: (do not skip a stitch), SC DEC, SC into next 4 stitches, SC DEC, SC next sixteen stitches back to stitch marker (22 stitches)

17 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next two stitches, SC DEC, SC into next nine stitches, SC DEC, SC into next seven stitches (20 stitches)

18 Place Stitch Marker: SC into first two stitches, SC DEC, SC into next eight stitches, SC DEC, SC into next six stitches (18 stitches)       

Add some stuffing to the body. Take a breath, this is the home stretch!

19 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next ten stitches, SC DEC, SC into next six stitches (17 stitches)

20 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next ten stitches, SC DEC, SC into next five stitches (16 stitches)

21 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next ten stitches, SC DEC, SC into next four stitches (15 stitches)                                                    

Add some more stuffing.

22 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next ten stitches, SC DEC, SC into next three stitches (14 stitches)

23 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next ten stitches, SC DEC, SC into next two stitches (13 stitches)

24 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next ten stitches, SC DEC, SC next stitch (12 stitches)

25 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next ten stitches, SC DEC (11 stitches)                                                

Really pack the stuffing in now. I like to fill it full, and pack it down, and then insert my hook to pull and adjust the stuffing to the tip of the tail once it's complete. Also, do what works, but I stop using a stitch marker at this point because it gets cumbersome. 

26 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next nine stitches, SC DEC (10 stitches)

27 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next eight stitches, SC DEC (9 stitches)

28 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next seven stitches, SC DEC (8 stitches)                                          

Pack a bit more stuffing in!

29 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next six stitches, SC DEC (seven stitches)

30 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next five stitches, SC DEC (six stitches)

31 Place Stitch Marker: SC into next four stitches, SC DEC, SC DEC, SC, tie off

Use a yarn needle to draw the tail of the yarn back into the tip of the tail and out the side on the belly. Pull and snip so that the end of yarn is hidden inside the belly. 

Use your hook to maneuver some of the stuffing from the tail further up the tip to make it consistent.


Arms:

Chain 3, join and 3 SC into the first chain. 

SC around (5 stitches) x 3, inverting after the first round. 

Tie off, leaving a long tail of yarn for sewing, repeat for second arm.

Right Leg:

Chain 5, turn.

SC into second stitch from hook. SC into next two stitches, 3 SC in last to round the corner.

SC into next three stitches, 3 SC into next. 

SC around (12 stitches) into back loop only.

SC into next four stitches, SC DEC, SC next three stitches, SC DEC, SC DEC. 

SC 23 stitches in the round. Tie off, leaving a long tail of yarn for sewing.

Left Leg:

Chain 5, turn.
SC into stitch next to hook. SC into next two stitches, 3 SC in last to round the corner.
SC into next three stitches, 3 SC into next. 
SC around (12 stitches) into back loop only.
SC into next three stitches, SC DEC, SC DEC, SC into next three stitches, SC DEC.
SC 23 stitches in the round. Tie off, leaving a long tail of yarn for sewing.

Each of the two legs has one side that goes higher than the other. After adding some stuffing, make sure the higher side is facing out when sewing the legs onto the dinosaur.

The arms don't need any stuffing. After sewing the limbs into place, thread the yarn through the same way you did the tail, pulling securely and cutting with scissors so the extra yarn stay hidden within your dinosaur. 

If you try this pattern out, we would love to see the results! Send us an email or share and tag us on Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram! 

Baby T-Rex Sneak Peak!

t-rex.babies

I'm excited to share this sneak peak of the free pattern I'm working on right now! When Marie and I first started blogging I asked my three year old if there was anything he wished I would make for him, and this is it! He followed me around for the next few weeks asking "Are you done my dinosaur now?" "You aren't cleaning so you must be working on my dino, right?" His persistence paid off, we've got a small army of these guys in our house right now since I've become a little obsessed with testing the pattern. I'm loving how they've turned out! 

I've still got a bit of editing to do to make sure I'm not the only person who can actually read and understand my pattern, but it will be ready really soon!

Follow us on social media (there are links at the top of this post) to make sure you never miss a post! 

Also:

I've started an Etsy shop where you can buy some of our finished products!   I've put some T-Rex babies up, and you can find some finished adjustable masks there for dress-up play as well! 

Visit https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/TheYarnAndHookStore to check it out!

xo, Laura

Crochet Heart Clothing Patch

 
crochetheartpatch
 

My daughter loves crafting. The other day she was using her kid scissors and accidentally caught her dress and snipped a hole right in it! I sewed up the hole, but since it was quite a jagged edge (and I'm not very good at sewing) it was nearly impossible to sew it straight and clean.

 

My daughter also loves purple. She rarely wears an outfit that doesn't have purple in it somewhere. I decided to crochet a cute little purple heart to cover up the unsightly sewing job and to add a cute little detail to her dress. Now it's one of her favourite dresses!

xo Marie

This pattern works the heart from the bottom point and back around.

This pattern works the heart from the bottom point and back around.

Aren't they cute?

Aren't they cute?

Crochet Heart Clothing Patch Pattern


Materials Used:
Hook: 3.5 mm
Yarn: Medium 4

Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tc = treble crochet

Round 1: 7 sc in a magic ring or chain 2 and 7 sc in second chain from hook. Join with a slip stitch.

Round 2:
Ch 2, dc in same st.
2 hdc in next st.
2 dc in next st.
(3 tc, dc, hdc) in next st.
Slip stitch in middle of ring.
(hdc, dc, 3 tc) in next st.
2 dc in next st.
(2 hdc, dc) in next st.

Slip stitch to first dc of beginning of round, not to the chain 2. Using a sewing needle and thread that matches the yarn colour, sew the crochet heart patch onto an item of clothing.

This small heart pattern works up really quickly in only two rounds!  Adjust the size of the heart by using lighter or thicker weight yarn.

Contrast Kitchen Hand Towel

kitchen hand towel

This contrast kitchen hand towel is arguably one of the most useful things I've ever made for our home! My mom had a few different hand towels that buttoned onto the oven handle when I was growing up. It's funny what strange objects can trigger fond memories, but hanging hand towels are on my list of things that get me feeling nostalgic. If you need a towel, it's probably best to use one that adds a nice charm to the kitchen! I've collected a few hanging hand towels for our home over the years, and had fun adding my own design to the mix.

Never mind how cute it looks, I love how practical this crocheted hand towel is. It stops the spread of germs by clearly distinguishing which towel is for hands and which should be reserved for dishes. The fact that I never find it on the floor after it's been used by a hasty toddler is pretty nice too! 

kitchen hand towel

This pattern comes together really quickly. I'm looking forward to making more for myself and to give as gifts!  If you make one too, we would love for you to email us a picture, or share on Instagram and tag @theyarnandhook. Please comment with any questions you have! Happy crocheting!

xo Laura

Contrast Kitchen Hand Towel

Abbreviations:

SC = single crochet

HDC = half double crochet

CH = chain

Dec SC = decrease single crochet
 
Supplies:

 
Medium Level 4 Yarn in two colours {I used 1 skein each of Bernat Handicrafter Cotton in White and Overcast}                                     *It's important to use cotton yarn for this item, for absorbency* 

Size 5mm crochet hook
 
Pattern:
 
Chain 42 in the darker colour.
 
Row 1: SC into second stitch from hook, SC in each stitch to end. Join white without fastening off by pulling it through the last single crochet.

Rows 2, 3: *Turn. Chain 2, (in white) HDC in each stitch to end.* Repeat for row 3.

Want a quick picture walk-through of the colour switching process? I thought you might. 

Row 4: Carry the working end of the darker yarn up to join the last stitch of row 3 by pulling the darker colour through the 3 loops or the HDC. *Chain 2, HDC in each stitch to end. Repeat from* for Row 5
 
Rows 6 - 23: Continue this way, repeating the process of *switch colours, CH 2, HDC in each stitch to end, turn, CH 2, HDC in each stitch to end* until you have 6 stripes of each colour. (23 rows total)

Row 24: Switch to the darker colour by pulling it through the loops of the final HDC in row 23. CH 2, and HDC in each stitch to end. CH 1.

Row 25: Turn, SC into each stitch to end. Fasten off, pulling the tails of both yarns through the final SC.
 
Oven Fastener:
 
Row 1: Join the darker yarn to the top corner of work and SC 48 evenly along the edge. (This will cover over the yarn you carried over.) CH 1.

Row 2: Turn. SC in every other stitch to end. (24 stitches) CH 2.

Row 3: DC in every other stitch to end. (12 stitches) CH 1.

Row 4 - 17: *SC in each stitch to end (12 stitches) CH 1. Turn.* Repeat x16

Row 18: Dec SC, SC 8, Dec SC, CH 1. Turn. (10 stitches)

Row 19: SC 10. CH 1, Turn.

Row 20: Dec SC, SC 6, Dec SC, CH 1. Turn. (8 stitches)

Row 21: SC 8, CH 1, Turn.

Row 22: SC into first stitch, skip 3, use your hook to stretch out the fourth stitch a little (this will become the button hole), and work a fan stitch into it (3 DC, CH1, 3 DC in same stitch) skip 2, SC into final stitch in row, fasten off.

Join white onto side of fastener at the top of the DC row. SC all the way around to the top of the DC row on the other side. Weave in any ends.
 
Attach a small button, and enjoy!  

Family Infinity Cowl

toddlercowel

I crochet a lot of infinity cowls, scarves and neck warmers as gifts in the winter, and I was pretty excited when my son recently started asking me to make one for him, too. I love making miniature matching versions of adult styles for him. This design is soft and airy with a really nice drape, making it great for spring or fall weather!

infinity cowl

I wanted to give him the look of a double wrapped cowl, but this guy's really active when we're outside. I wasn't comfortable with the risk of one of the loops getting tugged and choking him while he's playing. I added a tutorial at the bottom of the pattern to sew the cowl into a secure infinity shape. This way you can get the look and drape of an infinity cowl, but keep the length of both loops safely in place!

Father son cowl

Of course, once I saw how cute my son looked in his cowl, I couldn't resist making a matching adult sized one for his Daddy! Don't they look so sweet together? I really like that this pattern works well for anyone in the family.  

daddy and me cowl

I've worked on a lot of my own designs, but this is one of my first actual written out crochet patterns. I would really appreciate any feedback. Leave a comment with any questions, to let me know if something needs clarifying, or send us a picture if you try it out! We'd love to hear from you!

Laura

Abbreviations:

SL ST: slip stitch

CH: chain

HDC: half double crochet

2 HDC: two half double crochets in the same stitch
 

Materials Used:

Yarn: Light Level 3 (I used Bernat Softee Baby in Grey Marl)
Hook Size: 5mm hook for kids sizes, or Size 6mm hook for adult size
 
Pattern:
 
Preschooler size: Chain 120 using size 5.0mm hook
Kids size: Chain 130 using size 5.0mm hook
Adult size: Chain 150 using size 6.0mm hook
 
*This pattern can be made as short or as long as you want, as long as you begin with an even number of chains.
 
The pattern is the same for all sizes:
 
SL ST into the first stitch at the beginning of your chain, being careful first to make sure that your chain isn’t twisted.
Row 1: Chain 2 and HDC into the same stitch as your CH 2. Skip a stitch, and do 2 HDC into the next stitch. Continue this way, with 2 HDC in every other stitch all the way around your loop to make the foundation row.

Rows 2 - 10: *SL ST into the top of the first CH 2 when you get back to it. Chain 2 and then HDC into the gap under and to the right of your SL ST (indicated by black arrow in picture below). Now rather than working 2 HDC into every other stitch, work them into the spaces between the groups of 2 HDC from the previous row (example indicated by green arrow below). Work 2 HDC into each of the spaces between the previous rows’ 2HDC groups all the way around. Repeat from *

When you’ve completed 15 rows for preschooler and kids sizes or 20 rows for the adult size, fasten off and weave in ends. OR leave a long, approximately 12 inch tail if you want to sew it into a permanent twist. I especially like this option for little kids.
 
To sew the cowl into a twist:

Fold your cowl in half, and in half again, and lay it on a flat surface with the top seam pointing up, and your tail of yarn at the back. I’ve numbered the rows of folds as 1, 2, 3, and 4 in the first picture below. (click to expand)

Carefully lower the second row and raise up the third so that the stitches in rows 1 and 3 are side by side but all four rows are still roughly the same length. Use the tail of yarn and a tapestry needle to sew the two edges of rows 1 and 3 together. I joined a length of about 15 stitches. Tie off and weave in the ends.

Complete Pattern Without Pictures:

Abbreviations:

SL ST: slip stitch

CH: chain

HDC: half double crochet

2 HDC: two half double crochets in the same stitch
 

Materials Used:

Yarn: Light Level 3 (I used Bernat Softee Baby in Grey Marl)
Hook Size: 5mm hook for kids sizes, or Size 6mm hook for adult size
 
Pattern:
 
Preschooler size: Chain 120 using size 5.0mm hook
Kids size: Chain 130 using size 5.0mm hook
Adult size: Chain 150 using size 6.0mm hook
 
*This pattern can be made as short or as long as you want, as long as you begin with an even number of chains.
 
The pattern is the same for all sizes:
 
SL ST into the first stitch at the beginning of your chain, being careful first to make sure that your chain isn’t twisted.
Row 1: Chain 2 and HDC into the same stitch as your CH 2. Skip a stitch, and do 2 HDC into the next stitch. Continue this way, with 2 HDC in every other stitch all the way around your loop to make the foundation row.

Rows 2 - 20: *SL ST into the top of the first CH 2 when you get back to it. Chain 2 and then HDC into the gap under and to the right of your SL ST. Now rather than working 2 HDC into every other stitch, work them into the spaces between the groups of 2 HDC from the previous row. Work 2 HDC into each of the spaces between the previous rows’ 2HDC groups all the way around. Repeat from*

When you’ve completed 15 rows for preschooler and kids sizes or 20 rows for the adult size, fasten off and weave in ends.